Method of and machine for ornamenting hosiery



w. L. BZARRON.

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR ORNAMENTING HQSIERY.

v I, APPLICATION FILED OCT-16,1919. 1 ,361,218. Patented Dec.-7, 1920..

2 SHEETS-SHEET u.

/ WITNESSES: INVENTOR W. L. BARRON.

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FO'H ORNAMENTING HOSIERY. APPLICATlON FILED OCT.16, 1919.

. 2 SHEETSSHEET 2- INVENTOR wnvzs: flan ,w v BY iii'l'E STATES PATENTOFFICE.

WILLIAM L. BARRON, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU-FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 7, 1920;

Application filed Qetober '16, 1919. Serial No. 331,040.

To all whom it may concern: 1

Be it known that I, \VILLIAM L. BARRON, a citizen of the United States,residing at Newark, in the county of Essex and State of New Jersey, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements inMethods of and Machinesfor Ornamenting Hosiery, of which thefollowing is a specification,reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to ornamental stitch sewing machines and has foran object to provide a machine of this type which is particularlyadapted for sewing arrowhead figures on hosiery to complete the usualornamentation known as clocking.

Heretofore, arrow -head clocking on hosiery has been formed either byknitting in the ornamental thread or threads or by sewing in the stem ofthe clocking on an overedge or other straightaway stitching machineafter which the arrow-head has been embroidered by hand in position atthe upper end of the stem. Also, the entire ornamentation has beenproduced by hand embroidering.

Methods of clocking involving hand sewing operations are costly to carryinto effect and it is also difficult and costly to properly knit in theornamental threads.

The present invention therefore has for a further object to provide amethod ofclocking hosiery which may be rapidly carried into effect bymachine operations, thereby eliminating the tedious hand work previouslyfound to be necessary.

Further objects of the invention will ap pear as the descriptionproceeds.

According to the present invention the stem of the ornamentation is sewnas usual by folding the ankle or leg portion of the hose longitudinallyand presenting the folded edge to an overcasting or overedge stitchingmachine, after which the'hose is opened out and placed upon thework-supporting horn or cylinder'bed of a second machine adapted tostitch the arrow-head ornamentation in a position with its basesubstantially at right angles to the axis .of the work-supporting horn,The work-support includes opposed guides for laterally locating a fillerpiece of blotting paper or angular aperture within which the ornamentalfigure or arrow-head is stitched.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a side elevation of a machineembodying the invention. Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the free endportion of the work-support ing arm or horn showing the needle andwork-holder. Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the upper and lowerwork-holding elements. Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the same. Figs. 5and 6 are, respectively, transverse and longitudinal sections throughthe workholding elements with the work in position therebetween. Fig. 7is a section on the line 7-7, Fig. 4. Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic viewshowing the arrangement. of the needlepunctures produced by the presentmachine in sewing the arrow-head ornamentation. Fig. 9 is a plan view ofthe completed work and Fig. 10 is a transverse section on theline10--10, Fig. 9. r 4

In the preferred embodiment of the invention, as illustrated, themachine frame comprises a base 1 from which rises the standard 2carrying the bracket-arm 3 terminating in the hollow head 4 in which isjournaled the needle-bar 5 carrying the eyepointed needle 6. Inpractice, the needle 6 cooperates-with a suitable loop-taker, not shown,within the free end of the hollow work-supporting horn or cylinder-bed"I which projects forwardly from the base 1 at an elevation above the.table-top a upon which such machines are customarily sta tioned. Thework-supporting arm or horn 7' carries the usual apertured throat-plate8 atits forward or free end.

The work is adapted to be clamped bebodiment illustrated, is moved toand fro over the throat-plate 8 to position the stitches in accordancewith the desired pattern. The present work holder is of the general typedisclosed, for example, in my atent No. 1,205,317, of November 21, 1916,and comprises the supporting bar 9 on which is mounted the bracket 10having at its free end a head 11 in which is slidably mounted thepresser-box 12. Projecting forwardly from the presser-bar 12 through theslot 12 in the face of the head 11 is the rod 12 the extremity of whichlies above and in the path of vertical movement of the arm 12 of abracket-piece fixed to the lower end of the usual manually operatedpresser-foot lifting bar 12 journaled in the head 4.

The work-holder is moved longitudinally of the bed 7 by means of theusual cam-slot 13 in the inner face of the cam-wheel 14. This cam-slotimparts rocking motion to the lever 15 which communicates its motion ina manner well known to the vertical post 16 rising from the rearward endof the bar 9. The work-holder is vibrated laterally of the bed 1 aboutthe post 16 as a pivot by means of the usual connections with thecam-slot 17 in the outer face of the cam-disk 14. These connectionsinclude the bellcrank-lever 18, pitman 19 and rock-shaft 20, all as morefully described in the patent to Horton No. 1,051,998 of February 4,1913. It is understood that a machine of the present type operatesautomatically, when tripped into action, to stitch the desired patternin the work and then come to rest; the usual stopmotion 8 being providedto control the period of action of the machine.

Secured to the front end of the bar 9 is the lower or work-supportingplate 21. This plate is provided with a stitching aperture 22 having theform of an isosceles triangle arranged with its base 23 substantially atright angles to the longitudinal axes of the bar 9 andwork-supportingarm 7. Stated in another way, the stitching aperture 22 is so disposedthat its axis of symmetry repre sented by the dotted line extending fromthe point 35 to the point 36 in Fig. 8 extends lengthwise of thework-supporting arm 7. The plate 21 carries the upstandin guidewalls'24at the opposite sides of t e aperture 22 and the guide-wall or stop 24'at the rear of said aperture. These guidewalls, 24, 24, together withthe plate 21 form a holder for a suitable filler-piece to be stitched'tothe under side of the work.

It will be noted that this holder is open at rearward wall 24 is cutaway, as at 25, to

avoid undue puckering of the goods as it is pressed into positionbetween the walls 24 by the presser to be described.

The presser-bar is provided at its forward end with a forward extension26 which, at its free end is formed into a flat foot-plate or presser 27having a triangular aperture 28 similar to and substantially in registerwith the aperture 22 in the work-supporting plate 21. The width of thepresser foot 27 is somewhat less than the distance between the sideguide-walls24 so that said foot may enter the space between said wallsand clamp the work firmly against the work-supporting plate 21.

rior to the operation of the machine, it is understood that the hose 29has first received the stem ornamentation as, for example, by beingfolded longitudinally and presented to an overedge machine to form theline of ornamental stitches 3O lengthwise of the wales 31.. As overedgemachines fusually produce a readily raveling stitch, the stitching 30isstarted at a point near the ankle of the hose and extends upwardlytoward the point 32 where the arrow-head ornamentation 33 is to beplaced; the arrow-head being depended upon to anchor the finishing endof the seam 30 and prevent raveling of the latter.

With the presser-foot 27 elevated, the operator then slides thefiller-piece 34 horizontally between the guide-walls 24 and intoengagement with the stop 24 without vertical movement, there being noobstruction at the front of the space between said walls 24, and placesthe open end of the hoseover the horn 7 with the'end 32 of the seam 30directly beneath the aperture 28 in the presserfoot 27 so that when thepresser-foot is lowered the triangular aperture 28 will expose the upperend of the initially stitched seam at substantially the center of thebase of said aperture.

When the machine is started, the needle makes-the first stitch at thepoint 35, Fig. 8, within the overseam 30 and, as the workholder isshifted forwardly, the stitching proceeds toward the apex 36 of thetriangle, whereupon to and fro lateral vibratory movements are impartedto the work-holder as the latter is slowly retracted, thereby placingthe needle-punctures alternately at opposite sides of the triangle.WVhen the bottom of the triangle is reached, a few appropriate finishingstitches are placed along the base and the final tying stitches areplaced at the point 35 after which the machine comes to rest. After thework is removed from the machine, the operator tears away or otherwiseremoves the uncovered portion'of the filler-piece leaving I the finishedwork as shown in Figs. 9 and 10. Although it is possible to do the abovedescribed work on a flat bed machine it will be readily understood fromthe foregoing disclosure that the combination afforded by the use of thetubular work-supporting arm over which the hose may be readily placedwithout distortion, together with stitch-forming mechanism and aworkholder adapted to produce a stitched figure having its axis ofsymmetry disposed lengthwise of the work-supporting arm, is particularlydesirable for sewing clocking on hosiery.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis 1. A sewing machine for clocking hoisery having, in combination,stitch-forming mechanism, a work-support, means on the worksupport forpositioning a filler-piece in sewing position at the underside of thework, a presser-foot having a foot-plate formed with a sewing aperture,and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism andpresser-foot to lay the sewing threads across from one to the other sideof said aperture and progressively along the length of said aperture,thereby substantially covering with stitches the area of materialexposed within said aperture.

2. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, awork-support, means on the work-support having side and bottom walls forpositioning and supporting a filler-piece in sewing position at theunder side of the work, a presser-foothaving a foot-plate formed with asewing aperture, and means for relatively moving the stitch-formingmechanism and presser-foot to substantially cover with stitches the areaof material exposed within the aperture of the presser-foot.

3. An ornamental stitch sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a work-holder including a worksupporting plate formedwith an apertured bottom wall for supporting a filler-piece and havingspaced guiding means rigid with said bottom wall for laterallypositioning the fillerpiece over the aperture therein, a presser-foothaving an aperture registering with the aperture in said bottom wall,and means for relatively moving the stitchforming mechansm andwork-holder to substantially cover with stitches the area of ma terialexposed within the aperture of the presser-foot.

l. An ornamental stitch sewing machine having, in combination,stitchforming mechanism, a work-holder comprising a work-supportingplate formed with an apertured bottom wall for supporting a filler-'piece and having spaced guiding means rigid with said bottom wall forlaterally positioning the filler-piece over the aperture therein, anapertured presser-foot adapted to be re ceived between said spacedguiding means, and means for relatively moving the stitchformingmechanism and work-holder to substantially cover with stitches the areaof material exposed within the aperture of the resser-foot.

5. A sewing machine for clocking hosiery having, in combination, a frameincluding a tubular work-supporting arm, stitch-forming mechanismincorporated in said frame, a work-holder including means on theworksupporting arm for laterally positioning a filler-piece at the underside of the work, a vertically movable presser-foot having an apertureso disposed that an axis of symmetry of said aperture extends lengthwiseof said arm, and means for relatively moving the stitch-formingmechanism and work-holder to substantially cover with stitches the areaof material exposed within the aperture of the presser-foot.

G. A sewing machine. for clocking hosiery having, in combination, aframe including a tubular work-supporting arm, stitch-forming mechanismincorporated in said frame, a work holder including spaced guiding meansfor laterally positioning a filler-piece at the under side of the work,a Vertically movable presser-foot having a triangular aperture disposedwith its base substantially at right angles to the longitudinal axis ofsaid arm, and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanismand work-holder to substantially cover with stitches the area ofmaterial exposed within the aperture of the presserfoot.

7. A sewing machine for clocking hosiery having, in combination, a frameincluding a standard and a work-supporting horn free at one end and atits opposite end joined to the standard above the base of the latter, awork-holder mounted on said horn and including work-support and pressermembers formed with registering triangular apertures with the bases ofsaid apertures extending substantially at right angles to thelongitudinal axis of said horn, stitch-forming mechanism incorporated insaid frame, and means for producing relative stitch-positioningmovements between said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder tosubstantially cover with stitches the area of material exposed withinthe aperture of the presser-foot.

8. A work-holder for ornamental stitch sewing machines having, incombination, an apertured work-supporting plate including asubstantially flat bottom wall for supporting a flat filler-piece,upstanding guiding means at opposite sides of the aperture of said plateto laterally position the filler-piece over said aperture at the underside of the work, and a correspondingly apertured vertically movablepresser-foot adapted to be received within the space defined by saidguides.

9. The method of clocking knitted hosiery which comprises, sewing astraightaway line of ornamental stitches longitudinally of the wales ofthe hose, assembling the hose thus prepared over the arm of acylinder-bed machine with a filler-piece against the inner surface ofthe hose at the upper extremity of the first-made line of stitches,operating the machine to sew through the hose and filler to form anornamental group of stitches covering and anchoring the upper end of thefirst line of stitches and, lastly, removing the portions of thefillenpiece which are not in- 10 cluclecl in the stitched figure Intestimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

WILLIAhI L. BARRON.

